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The information in this document is based on my own use of the SD14 (16.000+ images since may 2007) - and on posts made on the Sigma forum of
dpreview.com. |
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Thinking of getting a SD14? |
Waiting for, or just got a SD14? |
Used the SD14 for a while? |
You will find useful info in this document. |
This document is for you. |
You will find some advanced info in this document. Also read about other lens options for the SD14: |
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- What's in the package?
- What else do you need?
- Some tips on how to get started properly.
- Useful information on various functions
- Errors and workarounds (if any)
- Undocumented features
- Reference to SD14 users galleries.
- Software options
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1. Before you begin |
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1.1 The SD14 package includes: |
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1. Camera body (SD14)
2. Body cap (on the camera)
3. Eyepiece cup (on the camera)
4. Strap
5. Finder cap
6. Li-ion battery BP-21. A battery cover is included.
7. Battery charger BC-21
8. Battery charger Cable
9. USB cable
10. Video cable
11. SIGMA Photo Pro CD (SPP3)
12. Instruction Manual
13. Warranty card
14. SIGMA Limited Warranty & Service Network
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1.2 What else will you need? |
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1.2.1 What you must have: |
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A Compact Flash (CF) card
A CF card reader
A lens (if not included with your package) |
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1.2.2 What you should also get: |
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Additional CF cards
An additional battery |
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1.2.3 Useful from day 1: |
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A grey card, or other means, to help set the white balance (WB)
A screen calibration tool (either hardware or software) |
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1.2.4 Additional stuff for later: |
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Power grip PG-21. A battery grip that holds 2 batteries.
An AC power adapter (SAC-2); useful for firmware upgrades.
Remote controller RS-31. More info later
Cable release switch CR-21.More info later |
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1.3 Getting the right card. |
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1.3.1 Type |
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The SD14 uses Compact Flash (CF) cards. (It is possible to use a SD card with a CF adapter.) |
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1.3.2 Size |
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The SD14 image files in RAW format are between 8 and 20+ Mb in size. A 2Gb CF card can store about 130 images. Currently you can get CF cards up to 64 Gb (or
more). Consider the risk of losing many pictures if a card fails. |
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1.3.3 Speed |
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A fast CF card (with a fast card reader) gets the images faster off the card, but has little effect on the in-camera writing speed and preview. I use one of
the fastest available cards, the Sandisk Extreme IV 2Gb FAT16 (see below about FAT settings), but it gives me no faster writing than a cheaper, slower card. Faster cards do not
influence the frames per second (fps) or buffer clearing time, because the SD14 does not support the protocols for the fast cards (UDMA 4.0), meaning it cannot take advantage of the
higher data transfer rate while writing the image |
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1.3.4 Quality |
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The better CF cards have algorithms that randomly distribute the files on the CF-card, while the less expensive ones always start from the beginning of the
card. As there are a limited number of write times at a given point at the card, the better ones last longer. While there is no guarantee against failure for any brand of card, it
appears that the risk is smaller with the more expensive cards. I would not dream of trusting my pictures to an unknown, cheap brand. Be aware that there are MANY fake cards on the
market - see the next section |
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1.3.5 Counterfeit CF cards |
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eBay estimates that more than 95% of all CF cards offered on eBay is counterfeit. Millions of people have been cheated.
See the full article here:
So, be careful, or buy only from a recognised dealer. |
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1.4 What lens should I get? |
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This depends on your particular need. You can always ask for recommendations at dpreview.com, the Sigma forum. |
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1.4.1 Crop factor |
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The sensor in the SD14 is smaller than the 35mm format/a full frame sensor. The difference is expressed as a crop factor - the SD14 having a crop factor of
1.7. You multiply this factor to the mm of the lens, to get the effective focal length of the lens.
Example: A 50-150mm on a SD14 equals a 85-255mm on a Full Frame camera (50x1,7 =
85, 150 x 1.7 = 255). |
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1.4.2 Quality of the lens |
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The sensor deserves a high quality lens. The Sigma lenses with EX in their name is better than non EX lenses. Kit lenses are never EX, so you might not get
optimal results with them. If you can afford it, get better glass. |
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1.4.3 Can you use other than SA mount lenses? |
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Yes! The SD14 uses the Sigma SA mount, with lenses made only by Sigma. If this is a limitation, there are several alternatives – but then you, in most cases,
have to accept manual focus and aperture. The various alternatives will let you use lenses with a variety of mounts: M42, Pentax K, Canon (EF and FD), Nikon F, Zeiss (ZF, ZS, N, C/Y),
Leica (M and R), Minolta, Olympus, Exacta, Hasselblad, Mamiya 645, Deckel, Pentacon-six, Pentax (645 and 6x7) and possibly more. |
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The alternatives range from using an adapter (or two), to replacing mounts either on the lens (several alternatives) or on the camera (Nikon, Leica R, Olympus,
Canon EF.). |
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As an example: A Zeiss ZS can be used with a M42 to SA adapter. Several members of the Sigma Forum at dpreview.com use a number of Non-Sigma lenses. Go here. for extensive information. |
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1.5 Getting the right battery/charger |
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1.5.1 Sigma battery |
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One Sigma battery (BP-21) is included in the package along with a Sigma charger. The battery is 7.4V, 1500mAh. |
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1.5.2 The Power grip (PG-21) |
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The advantage of the PG-21 is
- Double battery capacity, as it can take two Li-ion batteries, and automatically switch.
- More safety from power related issues when doing firmware upgrade
- Better vertical position grip.
- Additional shutter release for verticals
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1.5.3 Extra batteries |
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Sigma says to use the original battery but several people use replacement batteries. |
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These non-Sigma batteries are known to work: |
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- NP-400 for Pentax/Minolta-Impact
- DL150 (off-brand battery for Minolta NP400)
- Pentax D-L150 battery (1620mAh)
- Other off-brand NP400 batteries, but these may not have the same precise dimensions as the original. 3 users have reported problems with NP-400 compatible batteries sold by
Cameta. These are difficult to get out of the camera. Check carefully and adjust the battery before inserting it all the way. Some of the cheaper NP-400 clones does not last
long.
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Some users recommend only batteries with Japanese and not Chinese cells. |
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There are replacement batteries rated at 1200mAh, 1300mAh, 1500mAh, 1700mAh, 2000mAh or other, so check carefully. 200mAh is roughly equal to 20 minutes of
battery life. |
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These batteries do NOT work: |
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- Olympus BLM1 has the same specs as BP-21 (7.4V 1500mAh Li-ion), but it has wrong contacts.
- Batteries for Sigma SD9/SD10
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1.5.4 The charger |
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The Sigma charger can charge non-Sigma batteries. Chargers for NP-400 (and clones) can charge Sigma BP-21 batteries. |
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1.6 Getting the right camera release |
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1.6.1 Sigma CR-21 remote switch |
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Sigma deliver a remote switch, CR-21. Other makes may work – see comments later in this document. |
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1.6.2 SIGMA RS-31 remote controller |
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More info below. |
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Contents: |
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1 Before you begin: |
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1.1 The SD14 package includes:
1.2 What else will you need?
1.2.1 What you must have:
1.2.2 What you should also get:
1.2.3 Useful from day 1
1.2.4 Additional stuff for later:
1.3 Getting the right card. |
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1.3.1 Type
1.3.2 Size
1.3.3 Speed
1.3.4 Quality
1.3.5 Counterfeit CF cards |
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1.4 What lens should I get? |
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Can you use only SA mount lenses on the SD14? |
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1.5 Getting the right battery/charger |
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Sigma battery
The Power grip (PG-21)
Extra batteries
The charger |
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1,6 Getting the right camera release |
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Sigma CR-21 remote switch
SIGMA RS-31 remote controller |
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2. Beginnings |
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2.1 First steps: |
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2.2 Good to know: |
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2.3 Battery |
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Charging and seasoning
Faulty batteries |
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2.4 CF cards |
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What File System to use?
CF cards previously used in another type of camera
How to get the images off the card?
CF Card speed
Size considerations
Special cards |
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2.5 Firmware |
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Firmware upgrade warning
Current firmware version and known bugs
Firmware location
Check your version of the Firmware
Firmware history
Firmware upgrade
The procedure:
Afterword on firmware upgrade |
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Adjusting the dioptre setting
About resolution
JPEG extraction from RAW |
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3 Start using the camera:
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Exposure
Histogram
Basic measuring
Red
Over exposure warning |
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About focus |
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Focus test
Focus adjustments
AF Focus points
Focus confirm with manual focus
Focus and Exposure Off-centre |
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Sensor/Screen alignment.
Sleep mode
P–Mode
Camera movement
Viewfinder
Coverage
Screen
Additional options |
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WB |
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Custom WB
WB indoor, with tungsten and halogen light.
Mired filters
Mix JPEG and RAW |
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File numbering |
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Multiple cards and 9999+ images
Restoring proper numbering sequence |
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Flash Photography |
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Pop-Up flash
Sigma flashes
PC Syncro Terminal
Flash photography – General info |
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ISO
About speed
Dark frame capture
Mirror Up |
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Releases |
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SIGMA CR-21 remote switch
SD9 and SD10 releases
Non-Sigma releases
SIGMA RS-31 remote controller |
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LCD screen
AEL (Auto Exposure Lock) |
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Dust |
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The dust protector
Cleaning the sensor |
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IR |
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The func menu system |
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Addendum to/errors in the manual. |
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Undocumented features |
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Flash - lowest shutter speed
Halfway press with Cable Release CR-21 supported
Flash sync.
AEL |
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Changes due to Firmware updates |
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ISO 50
Sensor cleaning on battery |
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Non-Sigma lenses for SD14 |
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RAW Development |
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Color calibration
SPP
Raw Developer (Mac only)
Adobe Lightroom
Adobe Photoshop CS2
Adobe Photoshop CS3
Photoshop Elements 5 |
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2 Beginnings |
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2.1 First steps: |
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Charge the battery. See also: Charging and seasoning
Insert the CF card
Adjust the diopter setting correctly.
Enable Extended mode, which gives you ISO50
(Requires Firmware 1.05 and up) and ISO1600.
Set the image quality to high and RAW. |
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2.2 Good to know: |
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-The viewfinder shows 96% of what the sensor captures.. (98% vertically and 98% horizontally)
-Because of the relatively small sensor, the camera is quite vulnerable to
camera shake. Use a tripod whenever possible.
-The LCD image and histogram is made from the in-file JPEG of the RAW file. Changing "Camera Settings" in the Menu will influence adjust the
appearance of the image on the LCD screen, but it will also change the histogram, thus making it impossible to use the histogram as exposure help.
-Underexposed parts of the pictures may yield
very ugly noise (magenta/green blotches). This is invisible in preview on the LCD screen, so you have to learn from experience. If you can see that your exposure will leave areas dark, consider
exposing a little lighter and pull back in SPP, as this will greatly reduce noise. Several people have chosen to apply +EV0.7 as a standard setting (at ISO 100 and up), to keep noise down, as
this has been a method generally "accepted" on dpreview, Sigma Forum. Others claim it is unnecessary, as long as one watches the exposure on the histogram. |
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2.3 Battery |
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2.3.1 Charging and seasoning |
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There isn't much power on the battery when you open the box, so your first step should be to charge it. Many people have experienced improved capacity when 'seasoning' the
batteries. Seasoning means discharging and recharging the battery several times. Use the slideshow function on the camera to empty the battery, then recharge again. Repeat a few times.
Actually, L-ion batteries should not have issues with seasoning; I think it may be a matter of cell alignment.
Li-ion batteries should also not be completely discharged. Do NOT try to be
smart and discharge it by shorting the terminals or using a lamp to completely emptying it. This will shorten the battery life. You are safe if you use the camera to discharge the battery
(slideshow is a good method), then the battery will be far from empty when the camera stops working.
Do not store a discharged battery for a long period of time, as this will reduce battery life.
Some more useful tips here. |
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2.3.2 Faulty batteries |
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Unfortunately, some people have gotten batteries that just did not improve after several discharge/charge cycles. Contact Sigma.
You should be able to get at least a
few hundred shots. I have got about 400 at most, others have got even more. There has been reports of 1000+ shots. |
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2.4 CF cards |
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You insert the CF card "backwards" (front away from you). The ridge then faces you, and makes it easier to get the card out. |
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2.4.1 What File System to use? |
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For CF cards LARGER than 2Gb, use FAT32, for 2GB and smaller use FAT16. (FAT16 is supposed to be a little bit faster than FAT32.)
(The term FAT/FAT32 describes how the file system on the card is organized) |
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You can connect the SD14 directly to the computer and download from it, or use a CF-card reader. Most people do the latter.
Depending on the speed of the card, there is a huge
time improvement getting the images off the card with a fast reader.
Do not work in SPP v3 (win) (the RAW developing SW included with your camera) directly against the card, as this software
is buggy, and at least in theory could render the files on the card unusable. This warning applies both if the CF card is in the camera or in the reader. I would not recommend to do it with other
versions of SPP eighter. Copy the files to the HD first.
If you choose to not use a card reader, expect that Windows at some point no longer will see the camera. This is a Windows fault, not a
camera fault. If so, try to reboot, or as a last resort, use a DOS window and copy the files with DOS commands. Drop me an email if you need help on this.
Most people use a card reader to
unload the images. Even if the CF card has no exposed contacts, it is vulnerable to ESD, so be careful when changing. Do not walk around on carpets with your card in hand. If you can ground
yourself before touching the card, and only place the CF card on an anti-static surface, you minimize the risks. |
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2.4.4 CF Card speed |
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As mentioned in the "Before you begin" section, the SD14 cannot take advantage of a fast card. However, it may pay to get a fast card with UDMA support, as you really
speed up the time to get the images off the card. And more and more cameras do support them. (According to Sandisk: currently 5 cameras support UDMA (Canon IDs Mark III, Nikon D3 and D300, Oly E3
and Sony A700). The upcoming SD15 do not use CF cards, but SD cards.. |
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Speed table |
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1x (base rate) |
150kB/s |
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20x |
3MB/s |
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80X |
9MB/s |
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120x |
15MB/s |
A-Data |
133x |
20MB/s |
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266x |
40MB/s |
Ritek, Kingston |
300x |
45MB/ss |
Sandisk, Lexar |
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Actual speed is always lower. |
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2.4.5 Size considerations |
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The SD14 should support any CF card size.
All CF cards will ultimately fail. Depending on the quality, they are designed to handle an average of between 10.000 and 1.000.000
writes in any one "spot". So, with a cheap CF card, you start to live dangerously after 5.000 images, as every time you insert the card, it will start form the same place. Better cards have
"wear leveling" that spread the writing out.
Dirt and ESD (Electric Static Discharge) can also ruin your card. ESD is more likely to happen with frequent changes, and with fast changes.
So, do you want a small number on the card, so not to lose a lot of images when the card breaks? Or, do you want to use larger cards, so you lessen the risk of ESD by avoiding frequent CF card
changes in the field?
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Sizes available |
File system(FAT) |
Max size by manufacturer |
Appr. No of RAW images on card |
32,64,128,256MB |
16 |
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512MB |
16 |
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1GB |
16 |
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62 |
2GB |
16 |
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125 |
4GB |
32 |
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250 |
8GB |
32 |
A-Data |
500 |
16GB |
32 |
Kingston |
1000 |
32GB |
32 |
Ritek, Transcend |
2000 |
48GB |
32 |
Pretec |
3000 |
64GB |
32 |
Sandisk, Samsung |
4000 |
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2.4.6 Special cards |
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Some manufacturers deliver CF cards aimed at industrial use, with more robust specifications.
Sandisk (Industrial 5000), Ritek (Rugged), A-Data. |
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2.5 Firmware |
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Firmware is the "operating system" of the camera. With the SD14 Sigma has been very good at frequently releasing firmware upgrades to resolve issues. Unfortunately, errors have also
been introduced with firmware upgrades. |
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The current version can be found here.
Sigma used to store older firmware versions on their site, but these have recently (as of 20080430) been deleted.
If you, for some reason, need an earlier version of the firmware, contact me by email.
Up to v1.06 it was not possible to downgrade a FW version, but reports indicate that with v1.07 and
v1.08, it is possible to downgrade. |
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Sigma has released 7 firmware upgrades since the release of the SD14. Most have been for fixing bugs, but also a major improvement – ISO 50 (from version 1.05).v1.06 and earlier: not
find a valid firmware file and will report: "Firmware update failed"-v1.07 and up: downgrade to the older FWYou may re-run the firmware update.Firmware upgradeWarning! Read this before you
upgrade.A failed firmware upgrade may cause the camera to cease operating. If so, you will have to send your SD14 to Sigma for reflashing the firmware. There is/was a bug in Sigma's firmware
upgrade routine or camera, that cause seemingly random firmware upgrade failures. The situation has greatly improved with firmware version v1.07, where just a few had upgrade failures. With v1.08
no firmware upgrade failures has been reported so far. One issue that undisputedly may cause firmware upgrade failure is if the camera runs out of power during the upgrade. Therefore, use only
freshly charged and well seasoned batteries for the upgrade.First: Do not do the update until your battery is seasoned. You MUST have a good battery before you update. |
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Version |
Date |
1.01 |
April 2007 |
1.02 |
May 2007 |
1.03 |
May 2007 |
1.04 |
August 2007 |
1.05 |
October 2007 |
1.06 |
February 2008 |
1.07 |
April 2008 |
1.08 |
August 2008 |
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See a "complete" list of updated features here: http://www.sigma-sd14.com/software/firmware/
"Complete" because there are several undocumented bugfixes and other changes.
Compare your firmware version against the current version found here: http://www.sigma-sd14.com/software/firmware/
v1.06 was published, but withdrawn due to a large percentage of failed v1.06 firmware updates.
v1.06 and v1.07 also introduced some unpleasant bugs. v1.08 is supposed to have corrected this.
If you place the firmware update file in a subdirectory, the camera will not find a firmware file and will report: "Firmware update failed"
If you place an old firmware update file on the card (root), the camera will: |
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- v1.06 and earlier: not find a valid firmware file and will report: "Firmware update failed"
- v1.07 and up: downgrade to the older FW
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You may re-run the firmware update. |
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2.5.6 Firmware upgrade |
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Warning! Read this before you upgrade.
A failed firmware upgrade may cause the camera to cease operating. If
so, you will have to send your SD14 to Sigma for reflashing the firmware.
There is/was a bug in Sigma's firmware upgrade routine or camera, that cause seemingly random firmware upgrade
failures. The situation has greatly improved with firmware version v1.07, where just a few had upgrade failures. With v1.08 no firmware upgrade failures has been reported so far.
One issue
that undisputedly may cause firmware upgrade failure is if the camera runs out of power during the upgrade. Therefore, use only freshly charged and well seasoned batteries for the upgrade.
First: Do not do the update until your battery is seasoned. You MUST have a good battery before you update. Preferred power configurations when upgrading: |
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- DC adaptor (with a well seasoned, freshly charged battery in camera, to cater for power outage)
- The Power Grip (with two well seasoned, freshly charged batteries)
- A well seasoned, freshly charged battery in camera
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Follow the update procedure as outlined in the manual/on the Sigma web-site. http://www.sigma-sd14.com/software/firmware/If, after a few discharge/charge cycles, you get
only like 100 images or less on one set of batteries, I would recommend against updating.Sigma USA recommends that the camera be connected to the AC adapter for Firmware updates (Ref TJ Hanlon,
dpreview)" But: Firmware update (at least from v1.05 to v1.06) might fail even with grip or AC adaptor. |
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2.5.7 The procedure: |
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See the manual or Sigma's web site for the procedure and FOLLOW IT – even if some of the steps are clearly unnecessary. (See the next section)
If the update fails, and
the camera does not start, the camera has to go back for service, so take every step you can to get it right. (Even then it may fail, unfortunately) |
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2.5.8 Afterword on firmware upgrade |
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There are some hard to kill myths about the possible causes of firmware upgrades.
If you get a "Brickma" (a SD14 which no longer works due to a failed firmware
upgrade), and report this failure at the dpreview forum, be sure to have followed the procedure. Some well meaning, but unknowledgeable people will try to pin the failure to some specific steps
of the procedure. Let me be clear; it does not harm to follow the procedure to the letter. It is written this way to ensure that computer illiterates also have a chance to get it right |
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First myth: Format the CF card in the camera prior to upgrading, or you risk a Brickma. |
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.The ONLY reason to do an In-camera format prior to upgrading, is to erase any prior firmware file on the CF card, or fix an issue with CF cards used in other brands. If
you have several firmware versions/files on the card, the camera may choose another version than you wanted. You can achieve the same with a computer format (windows, mac or linux) or just delete
the files manually. The Sigma In-camera formatting does not leave anything magic on the CF card that the upgrading routine uses. It erases whatever is on the card, rebuilds the File allocation
table (FAT), creates a Sigma specific file-structure and name the volume Sigma-SD14. Supporting this view is the fact that many of those who had a Brickma when going from v1.05 to v1.06 did
format in camera prior to upgrade, and many that did not get a Brickma did not format in camera prior to upgrade. Personally I have never done an in-camera format on the card I use for upgrade,
and every firmware upgrade has been successful, including v1.05 to v1.06. |
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Second myth: There must be no other files on the cards other than the firmware upgrade, or else you risk a Brickma. |
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This is not true. Many users (who do not format prior to upgrade) have reported that they leave other files on the card during upgrade, with no problems at all. |
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Third myth: A firmware file not in the root directory can cause a Brickma. |
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This is not true. It will never be found by the firmware upgrade routine (which only looks in the root of the CF). The only result is the same error message that you get
It will state "Firmware upgrade failed", but will NOT result in a Brickma. |
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2.5.9 Note on the "Firmware upgrade failed" error message. |
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This error message is unfortunately not very informative in some instances. It does appear if you actually get a Brickma (meaning that the camera cannot be used, despite
turning camera off/on or removing battery/reinserting). But it also appears if the FW upgrade routine does not find an appropriate FW file, namely |
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a) without a firmware upgrade file in the root
b) with a firmware upgrade file in an other location than in the root (which is the same as a)
c) with an older firmware file in root (with camera FW prior to v1.07).
It states that the "Firmware upgrade failed", instead of saying that no firmware file was found. But it does NOT result
in a Brickma. |
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2.6 Note on the in-camera format. |
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A note about the in-camera format; you may be better off using windows, mac or linux. This is because the in-camera formatting is a quick format that do not check the card in any way. |
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The camera delivers very good JPEGs. (Some user differs on this) However, in Super High-Res JPEG, the SD14 extrapolates the pixels, and the result is not considered very good. In
this mode they also writes slower than RAW, due to the uprez. Most people use RAW. This is highly recommended, because the originals are better, and you can easily make JPEG from them (or TIFFs
for exporting to Photoshop without the (slight) loss of quality that JPEG gives you). The camera can save: |
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The camera can not save RAW + JPEG. But the RAW does contain a JPEG, which can be extracted by a few 3rd-party SW. |
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2.8.1 JPEG extraction from RAW: |
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3.1.1 Histogram |
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The histogram will show you one coloured line for each of red, blue and green.
Press the Info button to see the histogram when preview/reviewing the image.
You can also have the camera to show a histogram as part of the review. ("Menu", "Preview Style", "Info screen").
The histogram is generated from the JPEG, so if you change settings in-camera, this will also change the histogram. |
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3.1.2 Basic measuring |
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Also remember basic measuring theory. If you use the cameras meter, it will expose your subject so it resembles 18% gray. If you have a subject lighter than 18% gray (like skin), you
need to overexpose a little. If the subject is darker than 18%, you need to underexpose. If you master this, use the "Centre Area Metering", otherwise stick to "8 segment metering". |
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3.1.3 Red |
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If you have bright red in your scene, you run the risk of clipping the red channel. In this case you might need to go down a little on the exposure. There have been tons of post on
this subject on dpreview. Some claim problems with it, some claim not. This suggest that there might be camera to camera variance. |
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3.1.4 Over exposure warning |
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You can get the camera to mark blown out areas with a red colour on the LCD-screen. Some people have activated this without knowing what it does, and been surprised by this red colour
in the sky on the LCD. (J) Activate by:
• Menu
• Exp. Warning: On |
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3.2 About focus |
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If your pictures are not quite as sharp as you expect, and you are sure it is not camera shake, it might be a focus issue.
You should always verify that the camera is focusing
properly, both with Auto Focus (AF) and Manual Focus (MF), regardless of camera make.
Most SD14s do focus properly, but there are also several users that have had "back focusing" or "front
focusing" issues.
Back focusing is when you/the camera focus on a subject, but the focal plane in the resulting picture is beyond this subject.
Front focusing is when you/the camera focus on a
subject, but the focal plane in the resulting picture is in front of this subject.
Either most people do not have front/back focus issues, or it is invisible because it falls within DOF.
Make sure you
test your camera with all your lenses. If there are issues, contact Sigma. You need to send the camera and ALL your lenses to Sigma for calibration. Read this useful article on the subject. |
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3.2.1 Focus test |
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This is one way to test for focus issues:
- Download and print a Focus Test Chart that can tell you how much focus is off. Find a .pdf file for download here: http://www.focustestchart.com/chart.html. Chart at the end.
- Set the Dioptre properly (this will only affect Manual Focus)
- Place the Focus Test Chart at a plain surface, well lit.
- Set camera at tripod, point it 45 degrees at the Focus Test Chart.
- Use widest aperture
- Use AF at the test point of the Chart.
- Make several exposures with same lens, with different starting points for the focus. Make notes for each picture. (Image number, AF, lens and focus starting point)
- Use MF at the test point of the Chart.
- Make several exposures with same lens, with different starting points for the focus. Make notes for each picture. (Image number, MF, lens and focus starting point)
- Load pictures in SPP
- Evaluate
It is possible that AF and MF differ, and neither needs to be correct. If you have front or back focus issues, talk with your nearest Sigma representative. Use your pictures and notes to document the
issues. You will need to send both camera and ALL lenses in for calibration. (This is not Sigma specific, it happens with all brands) |
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3.2.2 Focus adjustments possible? |
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From time to time it is claimed that you can adjust the MF/AF focus with small screws in the mirror box. This advice originates from similar suggestions for the D-70 and has been
called a bad advice.
While some claims that this method works for them, this is certainly not how Sigma adjust AF issues. The suggested screw for AF adjustment is not for AF adjustment, but for adjusting
the AF sensors to match the AF brackets. So you are in fact moving the AF measure spot. And the top AF points might then have front focus and the bottom might have back focus or vice versa. The other screw
is for centering the viewfinder to match the sensor.
Reliable AF depends on several factors.
a) That the distance the light travel is the same as it travels to reach the sensor.
b) That the AF sensor is absolutely plane (90 degrees)
c) That the lens table is correct (when the AF-module determine that an adjustment of 100 units in one direction is required, but the lens believes
this is 110)
d) That the lens actually performs the desired movement
If the adjustment of the AF sensor is similar to the D-70, it is done by three screws in the AF-module, which require the camera to
be opened.
One reference: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=22707127
My sentiment is: Let Sigma handle it. |
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3.2.3 AF Focus points |
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The SD14 has 5 focus points, and the focus point is selected by holding the dedicated "AF-point Select" button at the back of the camera, while turning the Command Dial. One option
selects all focus points, allowing the camera to choose a point. The upper and lower AF-point needs horizontal contrast (line) to detect focus, the left and right AF points needs vertical contrast (line).
The centre point can cope with both horizontal and vertical contrast.. |
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3.2.4 Focus confirm with manual focus |
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The focus LED will light up if the subject in the active focus point is in focus.
This will also work with non-Sigma lenses, but there is one catch: After battery change, it is
necessary to mount a Sigma lens first. After this, change to a non-Sigma lens, and the focus assist LED will work. (Confirmed with M42) See:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=27316938 |
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3.2.5 Focus and Exposure Off-centre |
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If you do not want everything in centre, follow this procedure (if you use P, A or S mode and AF):
1. Compose your picture. Check that nothing just outside the viewfinder is going to appear in your picture.
2. Measure on the part of the picture you want correctly exposed and lock exposure. (Half-press
shutter, press and hold the Exposure lock button (AEL), release the shutter.
3. Aim at the part of the picture you want in focus, and lock focus. (Half-press and hold the shutter release. AFL)
4. Recompose and take the picture.
There is a catch with this method. The focus plane of a lens is flat, parallel to the sensor. This means that the distance to the centre is shorter than to any other
point. So if you focus lock in the centre, but moves this point off centre, you have measured a too short distance, and focus will lay behind the subject you focused on. It may very well be that this error
is invisible due to DOF, lens, distance to subject and aperture, but it will always be there with most lenses.
For more explanation, see: http://visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm
The remedy is to use another focus point (only if you do not have to recompose from this also) or switch to manual focus. |
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3.3 Sensor/Focusing Screen alignment. |
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Some users have reported a tilted horizon, even if it looks straight in the viewfinder.
This is either a sensor misalignment, or more likely a misaligned focusing screen.
If you see this problem, follow this procedure to identify the cause.
Place the camera flat on a table. Place a mirror (w/o a frame) at 90 degree, in front of the camera, so you can see in the viewfinder
where the mirror rests at the table..
1. If the bottom of the mirror (where it rests at the table) does not look straight, it is a screen misalignment.
2. If you take a picture, and you in this picture
can see that the bottom of the mirror is not parallel to the frame, you have a misaligned sensor.
A combination could also theoretically happen. |
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3.3.1 How to fix a misaligned screen: |
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If the screen in the viewfinder is misaligned, you may be able to correct it your self. But it involves removing the fragile dust protector.
If you do not want or cannot fix it yourself, or if it is a sensor misalignment, the camera has to be sent to Sigma. |
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3.4 Sleep mode/Power save |
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There are 3 sleep timers on the camera for energy conservation. 2 of them are configurable.
LCD sleep (30 sec default - configurable)
Auto Power Off (1 min default - configurable)
Metering/AF off – normally after 5-6 sec. Not configurable
The latter requires you to half-press the shutter to wake up the metering, sometimes
losing valuable time. Make it a habit to half-press while you lift the camera to your eye. A little catch here; the mechanical half-way point is a tiny bit before the electrical half-way point (at my camera
at least).
If you just tap the shutter, you get 6 sec. before shutdown. But if the focus assist lamp lights up, this timer changes to around 30 secs. |
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3.5 P–Mode |
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When using P-mode, you can change both shutter and aperture simultaneously by turning the Command dial. After the shot, the settings will return to the initial combination. |
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3.6 Camera movement |
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Use a tripod/support, or short shutter times, whenever possible. The sensor is very small, so camera movement is "magnified". On a tripod, use a release, preferably with
mirror up. (There are several people who do not use tripod and still get very sharp pictures.)
If you use tripod, and in P, A or S, remember to cover the viewfinder or else the measuring might be
affected. Use the enclosed Finder Cap.
You cannot use the old "mirror-up + delay" trick, as these settings resides on the same wheel (drive mode wheel). |
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3.7 Viewfinder |
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The viewfinder is bright, at least compared to SD9/SD10.
Another note for SD9/SD10 owners: The SD14 does not have the sportsfinder like the SD9/10 |
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3.7.1 Coverage |
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The Viewfinder of the SD14 covers 98% vertically and horizontally (96% total) of what will be included in the picture. This is more than many other cameras, but you still need to be
aware of objects just outside the frame |
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3.7.2 Focusing Screen |
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The focusing screen is in principle replaceable, but no manufacturer is currently making useable screens for the SD14. Katz used to make screens for the SD-19/SD-10. They are
currently looking into the possibility to make one for the SD14. It can be tricky to remount it, because you may end up with a misaligned screen, and not straight horizons. Katz reported that this was an
returning issue with SD9/10 |
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3.7.3 Additional options |
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A Nikon magnifying viewfinder will fit if the adapter is slid on upside down. (Tip: OnlyRealPixel) (http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=25962243)
A Pentax magnifier (O-ME53) will also fit. |
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3.8 WB |
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WB is set by pressing the "ISO/WB" button on the back. A screen with four settings is shown on the LCD. The "Down arrow" scrolls through the available WB settings.
The options are:
- AWB
- Sunlight
- Shade
- Overcast
- Tungsten/Incandescent
- Fluorescent
- Flash (there are claims that this is broken – use AWB)
- CWB (if a Custom WB is done)
If you scroll too far, you have to scroll through the whole list, as it is not possible to scroll backwards. (The intuitive action is to use "Up arrow", but this will only change your ISO setting, so you
need to scroll all the ISO settings to get your ISO setting back). Test and train, so you do not have to fiddle with this in action.
You can see your WB setting by pressing ISO/WB button, or by pressing
"Info" button. You have to look at the rear screen for this, as it is no WB indication in the viewfinder or on the top LCD.
There is no option for Kelvin, and no possibility for fine-tuning WB. |
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3.8.1 AWB |
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Beware of using AWB. It may be excellent most of the time, but it may be affected by dominant colours. It is not considered very good. Also, it has been reported that shooting AWB,
and changing to XWB (any WB) yields different results than shooting with XWB.
If you shoot RAW, a better option than AWB is to always use Sunlight, and change the WB in SPP or another Raw developer later,
if needed. |
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3.8.2 Custom WB |
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There is one "slot" for Custom WB (CWB)
You access CWB measuring through the Menu. (This is the only every day function that is hidden in the menu system)
1. Press "Menu"
2. Select "Set custom WB"
3. Point the camera at a scene with a white or grey card. The manual says: "fill the centre viewing circle with the card or subject being used as the target for CWB"
4. Press shutter button to capture a custom white balance
5. The CWB option is automatically selected in the WB menu.
The reading will be remembered until next CWB or a camera boot/factory reset.
If
using white/grey cards, the result (colour balance) will differs using the white vs. the grey side of the card. Test for yourself. Another useful tip is to turn off AF, else the camera may hunt for focus. |
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3.8.2.1 Expodisc (or similar) |
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Many people use the Expodisc, a device that you screw into the filter holder. Aim it at the subject, and it will act as a grey card. You
can do a custom WB with it, and as a "side effect", you will also get an exposure measurement. Use this approach:
1. Set camera at Manual focus.
2. Screw the Expodisc in place
3. Press "Menu"
4. Select "Set custom WB"
5. Point the camera towards the subject
6. Press shutter button to capture a custom white balance
7. Set shutter and aperture according to the reading
Note: Exposure
measurement might be more precise if the camera with the Expodisc is turned 180 degrees around, to measure the incident light, just as you traditionally would use a light meter. This might also give a more
precise WB measurement, as you would measure the colour temperature of the incident light. Otherwise the reading could be fooled by strong colours within the frame. There are more to this, but it is without
the scope of this article. There are fierce discussions about this, so see the Expodisc forum or test for yourself. |
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3.8.3 WB indoor, with tungsten or halogen light |
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With tungsten and halogen light, there are several approaches:
1. Using Sunlight WB or AWB, and change in post process. (not recommended)
2. Use Incandescent WB. (not recommended)
3. Using Custom WB. (not recommended)
4. Use a 80A or a 80B filter on the camera, both when measuring WB and when shooting. (Use CWB or Overcast WB)
5. Use what's called "mired" filters/foils.
6. Mix channels from JPEG and RAW
Due to the lack of blue in Tungsten and halogen, the first three approaches will give you a weak blue channel, more
noise and lower dynamic range, which cannot be amended in post processing. The answer is as in the good old film days, to use an 80A or an 80B filter on the camera, and set the WB to Overcast (or use Custom
WB). |
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3.8.3.1 0A/80B method: |
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PROs:
- White looks white
- Strengthens the blue channel- less noise even at higher ISOs.
- Greater dynamic range
CONs:
- You lose 1 or 2 stops.
Reference: http://www.dantestella.com/technical/lightbalance.html |
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3.8.3.2 Mired filters |
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This is a technique from the film days, still widely used among professionals. The idea is to colour balance the light sources, using specially designed filter foil. One example could
be if you shoot portrait at the beach with a frontal flash and a setting sun within the picture. The sun is warm, the flash is cold. There is no way a WB setting can balance this. As it is a bit tricky to
mire the sun, what you would do is to use a yellow foil on the flash, for shifting it from 6000K to 4500K or something. Now you have two WB-conform light sources and you can start your WB measurement to get
the expression you want.
Another example, in mixed indoor light, you can place a blue filter in front of each of the tungsten lights, to balance the light with the light coming from outside |
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3.8.3.3 Mix JPEG and RAW |
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This technique has been suggested at dpreview – Sigma Forum - by gbainbridge
If you run into a situation where the blue channel is week, an option is to swap this blue channel with
the blue channel from the JPEG. It will not remedy everything, but it will reduce noise.
See: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=27068167 |
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3.9 File numbering |
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Default is continuous numbering. You can also have the camera to start at 0001 each time you insert an empty CF card.
After 9999 images, the camera starts at 0001
again, in a new subdirectory: 101SIGMA. Until you format the CF-card, files is placed in this directory.
A camera reset will also reset the cameras image number counter |
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3.9.1 Multiple cards and 9999+ images |
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If you use multiple CF-cards, and only empty cards by doing an in-camera format or delete, you need to take some special precautions when reaching 9999 images. The problem
is that when you insert a card with a higher image number than the counter in the camera, the cameras counter is replaced with the highest number from the card. This action is performed at CF
card insert, so even if you format the card prior to taking pictures, you end up with a wrong sequence. Even if you can correct it (a bit cumbersome), it will happen again with the next card. The
solution is to empty all cards in the computer (delete or format) prior to using them in the SD14. (If you already have run into this problem, se below for fix. But then you might as well run all
your cards through an in-camera format before you reset the number) |
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3.9.2 Restoring proper numbering sequence |
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Let us say you have taken 5000 images. By accident, you change to File Numbering Auto Reset (or do a Camera reset) and when inserting an empty CF card, it starts from
0001. How do you get it to start from 5001?
And what if by any reason you want to LOWER the count? |
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3.9.2.1 Adjust the counter UP: |
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1. Copy an image with the desired number minus one to a CF card. Make sure no images with higher numbers resides on that card.
2. Set camera to File Numbering: Continuous
3. Insert the CF card into the camera
Voila, next picture will be numbered one higher. |
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3.9.2.2 Adjust the counter DOWN: |
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1. Copy an image with the desired number -1 to a CF card. Make sure no images with higher numbers resides on that card.
2. Insert card in camera
3. Set camera to File Numbering: Auto Reset
4. Set camera to File Numbering: Continuous
Voila, next picture will be numbered one higher.
Remember to erase those images with a too high
number from your CF card before you use that card again, as the SD14 will use the highest file number on the card as a base. |
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The "rules" are:
If set to File Numbering Continuous, the SD14 remembers the last number; let's call it #1000.
- insert a empty CF card, and the next picture will be #1001
- OR insert a card with highest number = #879 (=lower than #1000), and the next picture will still be *1001
- OR insert a card with highest number = #1287 (=higher than #1000), and the next picture will be *1288
If camera is set to File Numbering Auto Reset,
- insert a empty CF card, and the next picture will be #0001
- OR insert a card with highest number = #1287 and the next picture will be #1288
- OR insert a card with highest number = #879, and the next picture will be #880 |
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The Sigma SD14 has the following ISO in standard mode:
-ISO 100
-ISO 200
-ISO 400
-ISO 800
In extended mode the following ISOs are added:
-ISO 50 (requires Firmware v. 1.05 or later)
-ISO 1600
To activate Extended mode:
- Press Func 7 times and hold.
- Turn Command Dial so it reads Ext at the top LCD.
ISO 50 and ISO 1600 will now appear in the menu.
ISO is set in the same fashion as WB. Press ISO/WB, then on the LCD, scroll through the options with the "up arrow". |
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3.11.1 High ISO |
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ISO 800 and even more ISO 1600 gives you quite desaturated pictures. However, Klaus R at the Sigmauser forum has come up with a workflow that enhance high ISO work,
applying this as a filter in Raw Photo Studio (Only in German). http://
www.sigmauserforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47 |
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3.12 About speed |
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The camera can shoot about 2,7 fps in low res, and about 2,3 fps in high. The buffer takes 5-6 frames with RAW hi-res. The camera uses 5-6 sec. to write a frame to the
card. This means that when the buffer is full, you can take one picture every 5-6 second or 10-12 pictures a minute. Lower resolution will speed things up considerably, so if you suspect
situations where the buffer fills up, you may consider lowering the resolution. |
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3.13 Dark frame capture |
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When working with longer exposures, the camera will automatically capture a dark frame, to correct for sensor state. If you shoot single shots, the dark frame is captured
immediately after. In continuous, the dark frame is captured after the sequence, when you let go of the shutter release. |
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3.14 Mirror Up |
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Mirror Up is at the "Drive Mode" wheel.
1. Set the Drive Mode wheel to "Up"
2. Do metering and focus
3. Press the shutter all the way (this will open and lock the mirror, and lock AEL and AFL if you haven't done so already)
4. Release the shutter
5. Press the shutter again to expose. (This also releases the mirror)
Note that you only need a tiny pressure to expose in step 5. This is surprising first time you use it, so try it out.
You have to repeat the process if you want to take another mirror-up shot, as the mirror automatically returns to unlocked position.
You have 30 seconds between activating the Mirror-Up and
taking the shot; else the camera release the mirror automatically.
You cannot use time delay with mirror up, as they are both on same wheel.
A bug in firmware up to v1.05: If you regret
after step 3, and decide not to take the shot, but instead turn the "Drive mode" wheel to Single shot, you will not be able to take a picture in any mode until you have turned the camera off/on.
(This bug is fixed in v1.06 of the firmware) |
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3.15 Releases |
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3.15.1 SIGMA CR-21 remote switch |
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Sigma uses a ordinary 2.5 mm jack, similar to other makers.
This release does provide shutter half-press function, contrary to what the manual says. |
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3.15.2 SD9 and SD10 releases |
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It is stated in the manual, and reported from users that the releases for SD9 and SD-10 cannot be used
(http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=26008874), while others claim they do work. (http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=25928993) |
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3.15.3 Non-Sigma releases |
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It is reported that some non-Sigma releases work perfectly.
- Chinese made JJC MR-I.
Some releases release the camera but do not support shutter half-press function.
- Canon RS60-E3 cable release (and presumably non-brand clones) |
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3.15.4 SIGMA RS-31 remote controller |
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Sigma RS-31 allows for remote release from 5 meters in front to 3 meter at 30 degrees. A large lens might interfere.
Match the IR-channel on remote and on camera. There are three channels to choose from, in case of interference.
To select channel on the SD14: Press Func 4 times and hold.
Activating the remote control changes the behaviour of the SD14 in several ways:
* Camera no longer show speed/aperture in viewfinder/top LCD. You have to half-press shutter to see shutter
speed/aperture all modes. And they disappear the moment you release the button.
* To change Speed/Aperture in A, S and M, even if they are not visible, you can still change the settings with
only the Command Dial. This does not work in P.
* To have Speed/Aperture visible while changing, you can half-press shutter while turning the Command Dial (VERY cumbersome). Instead, press and
hold the DOF button, and turn the Command Dial.
* Continuous cannot be used. (Fires only one)
* Mirror Up can be used, but be aware that you have to re-activate mirror up after each shot.
* AEL button no longer works. Workaround is to use DOF button. It gives AEL, even if no AEL indication shows up. However, it does not make much sense to keep any fingers on the camera when
working with a remote release (unless it is a substitute for a cable release)
* Camera turns off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
* Battery consumption will increase, so remember to switch off.
The above indicates that best way to work with the remote release is to do all the adjustments prior to activating the remote.
If you have chosen an IR channel and then want to change exposure, it is much easier to deactivate IR, set the exposure, and reactivate IR.
Note: If AEL does not work, or speed/aperture
disappears from the LCD/viewfinder when you release half-press, you probably have a remote channel activated. |
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3.16 LCD screen |
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The image shown on the LCD screen is the JPEG from the RAW file (or the actual JPEG if camera is set to JPEG). The LCD has quite low resolution. Some people find the LCD
very useful for checking sharpness, but this is impossible for others. Image quality on the LCD was greatly improved with firmware version v1.05.
There are recommendations for setting JPEG
parameters in camera to make the LCD image appearance better. Beware, as this also influence the histogram, as the histogram is taken from the JPEG within the RAW file, making the histogram
useless. |
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3.17 AEL (Auto Exposure Lock) |
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AEL will be activated when pressing the AEL button, combined with half-press of the shutter.
AEL will also be activated when you press the DOF button.
AEL button does not work when remote control is activated. (But you can activate AEL with DOF button) |
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3.18 Dust |
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The SD14 has a dust protector/IR protector made of glass between the lens and the mirror.
Also, the shutter is improved over SD9/10, so shutter debris is less frequent.
The theory is that dust or spots on the dust protector will be so OOF that they are invisible.
The dust protector is a great help as no dust enters the camera when you change lenses. |
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3.18.1 The dust protector |
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It is a very delicate device, easy to destroy when re-inserting. Be careful.
See advice here: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=22474714 |
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3.18.2 Cleaning the sensor |
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Dust (or fragments) on the sensor may appear, despite of the dust protector.
You can send in the camera for cleaning, or do it yourself if you are comfortable with that.
Follow the instructions in the manual carefully.
Firmware after 1.01 allows for sensor cleaning on battery power. Firmware 1.00 requires the AC-adaptor for sensor cleaning.
If doing it on battery power, you would want a good battery, or preferably: The Power grip with two good batteries. |
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3.19 IR |
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The SD14 is very suitable for IR photography. The dust protector is also an IR protection filter. Remove the dust protector, and place an IR filter on the lens, and you
have an IR ready camera. |
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3.20 The func menu system |
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The func menu system hides 8 settings. See the following table for an overview. It is used by pressing the "func button" the desired number of times, and holding it at the last
press. Then turn the Command Dial to change the settings. The settings are shown on the top LCD. |
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# of press |
Function |
Options |
1 |
Metering |
- Matrix
- Centre Area (5 degrees)
- Average
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2 |
Focusing mode |
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3 |
Flash |
- Normal Flash
- Red eye
- Flash slave C1
- Flash slave C2
- Flash slave C3
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4 |
Infrared channels |
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5 |
Focus confirm Beep |
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6 |
Focus assist light |
AF Auxilary light
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7 |
Mode |
- Standard
- Extended (activates ISO50 and ISO1600 and more)
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8 |
Flash sync time |
Slowest flash sync time (undocumented feature)
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See the manual for explanation of each option. |
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5 Non-Sigma lenses for SD14 |
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(Disclaimer: I have not attempted conversion myself (yet), I have just compiled this information from posts on dpreview.com and from email received)
The SD14 use the SA
mount from Sigma. Only Sigma makes SA mount lenses. However, a lot of lenses from other manufactorers can be used. The options are: |
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- commercially available lens adaptors
- commercially available mount replacement (Zeiss and Nikon F)
- performing some light/heavy engineering on lenses/mounts.
The options are described here. |
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6 RAW Development |
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6.1 Color calibration |
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If you plan to share the SD14 images (or images from any camera) with others, through the Internet or by print, a color calibrated monitor is a must.
There are several HW/SW options.
On option that is said to get you very close to a tool calibrated process is:
http://www.aim-dtp.net/aim/evaluation/gamma_space/index.htm (thanks to spalbird at dpreview) |
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6.2 SPP - Sigma Photo Pro |
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SPP is Sigma's software for RAW development, and it is enclosed with the camera.
It can also be downloaded from Sigma's site, if you have a serial number of a SD camera.
Supported versions are SPP 2.3 and 2.4 for PC, and SPP 2.2 and 2.4 for MAC. The version numbering is quite confusing at first glance, because the SD14 was released with a version 3.0 (PC) and
3.1 (MAC). These versions (at least the PC version) introduced some new, useful features, but was bug-ridden. They were developed by another third party vendor than Sigma had used for previous
versions.They are no longer available for download.So Sigma returned to the 2.X line, and released the 2.3 (PC) and 2.2 (MAC) versions. Later the 2.4 versions came, with DP1 support. Expect to
see new versions when DP2/SD15 is released. |
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The SPP3.x versions had Print, Zoom and was Color Management. (Several people still use the SPP3 - myself included.) |
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Version for PC: SPP 3 and SPP 2.3 (SPP 2.4 – delivered with DP-1 will also work)
Version for MAC: SPP 2.2, SPP 3.1 and SPP 2.4
Note 1: SPP 2.2 (and below) for Windows does NOT work properly with SD14 RAW files.
Note 2: As of August 2008, SPP3 is no longer available for download. |
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6.2.1 SPP, versions and Feature overview |
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Version |
Release date |
PC |
Mac |
SD14 file support |
DP-1 files support |
Colour managed |
Print |
Zoom |
Loupe |
Crop |
Open/ edit JPEG |
Open/ edit TIFF |
Comments |
SPP 2.2 (pc) |
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X |
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No |
No |
No |
No |
No |
Yes |
No |
No |
No |
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SPP2.2 (mac) |
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X |
Yes |
No |
? |
No |
No |
Yes |
No |
No |
No |
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SPP 3.0 |
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X |
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Yes |
No |
Yes (*1) |
Yes |
Yes |
No |
No |
Yes |
Yes |
Bug ridden (*2) and a big annoyance to many. |
SPP 2.3 |
20071207 |
X |
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Yes |
No |
No |
No |
No |
Yes |
No |
No |
No |
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SPP 2.4 |
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X |
? |
Yes |
Yes |
No |
No |
No |
Yes |
No |
No |
No |
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SPP 3.1 |
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X |
Yes |
No |
Yes |
? |
? |
? |
No |
? |
? |
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Note *1: Some users claims it is color managed, while others claim it is not:
LMC54: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=27352325
Note *2: Bugs/limitations in SPP3
- Slow at showing thumbnails
- Slow at processing
- TMP file pile up
- Cannot process due to file error
- Not always saving JPG (even if indicator implies it)
- Checkbox for save to X3F file uncheck itself if resave unaltered picture.
- Deleting images can lead to errors
- Rotating images can lead to errors
- Rotating might not work.
Tips
- Keep number of files per folder at less than 100 or even less, else SPP 3 will give you problems (will also
be very slow on generating thumbnails).
- Keep X3Fs, JPGs and TIFFs in separate folders.
- A lot of RAM might help
- Defragment your hard disk
- Clean up temp files.
- Use some other application to delete and rotate the images.
Note # 3: Bugs/limitations SPP 3.1(Mac)
- It contacts Sigma's site every time it launch (probably checking for
updates) http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=26703890
- Problems reported for some users with Leopard. App does not launch.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=27043016 and others
- No arrows for previous/Next image, (Workaround:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=26676302)
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6.3 Raw Developer (Mac only) |
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Can be used for processing the SD14 RAW files
It is offered by Iridient Digital, at "http://www.iridientdigital.com/" .
Brazile: "It has a rather
techie-oriented interface, but is powerful and quite flexible, and it provides better control over noise reduction." |
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6.4 Adobe Camera Raw Plug-In |
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Used in other apps as a plug-in.
Current version is: 4.5
It is also possible to download Camera Raw 4.6 (Release candidate):
http://labs.adobe.com/wiki/index.php/Camera_Raw_4.6 |
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6.5 Adobe Lightroom and Lightroom 2 |
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Can be used for processing the RAW's
Uses Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) for X3F conversion. Requires ACR v. 4.1 or later. |
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6.6 Adobe Photoshop CS2 |
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Does not support opening of the SD14 RAW image files. Use SPP and save as TIFF before opening in CS-2 |
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7 Final words |
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I hope you have found something useful here. It has taken a lot of time to compile and write this, but it is well worth it if I by this can help new users to get more out
of their new camera. If you have any further questions of how to the use of the SD14, please ask at dpreview, the Sigma forum:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1027
This overview is produced by:
Øyvind Strøm
Corrections and suggestions to: Norwegianvikingindenmark(at)gmail.com
My background: |
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As a professional photographer: 200-300.000 pictures with Nikon film cameras (F3, FE2, FM) and 4,5x6, 6x6, 6x7 (Hasselblad, Mamiya, Bronica, Pentax)
25.000 pictures with Sony p&s
19 months and 15.000+ pictures with the SD14. Slowly restarting photographic business. |
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3.21 Color accuracy |
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If you are a professional that require absolute colour accuracy, you probably have invested in the neccessary equipment (which is needed for any camera). You also know how incredibly
expensive it is - we are looking at prices 3-4x the current price of a SD14 body. Fortunately, not many need absolute color accuracy. On the camera side, it requires a professional color chart (24 or 140
patches), and SW for creating camera profiles. Of course you need HW and SW for calibrating your screen and printer too. Again, this is not unique for the SD14. To complicate it further, each camera setup
(or each light situation) requiers a different profile, so you can't just get a profile from someone. And there may even be differences between individual cameras, requiring a profile for each camera. One
would typically take a picture of the color chart with each camera whenever one change setup, and make individual profiles. It goes without saying that one works with Custom WB, and determine if one prefer
to measure at white or gray cards, or using a Expodisc in direct or indirect mode. With that said, the SD14 produces very pleasing colors, However, especially red may be a challenge. Where the SD14 generally
let you compensate for overexposures, this is not true with red. The red channel is more prone to clipping. You may need to experiment to find a workflow to take care of red when needed. |
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